By Tobias Hüberli

Since March 11, one thing has been clear: The most exclusive table in Zurich fine dining can be found at The Restaurant – more precisely, in the kitchen of the two-star establishment, led for 18 years by head chef Heiko Nieder.

The idea for the new Chef’s Table had been on his mind for six or seven years, Nieder says. The renovation at the five-star Dolder Grand hotel took three weeks. The result is striking.

Illuminated Stone Tabletop

Seated on a semicircular leather banquette, guests at the Chef’s Table feel as if they are in a small theater. An illuminated stone tabletop, combined with soft overhead lighting, creates an atmosphere of quiet intimacy.

Unlike in the dining room, guests here witness up close what is usually only implied. The almost intimidating precision required at this level of cooking. Or the remarkable choreography during plating, when countless, meticulously rehearsed movements interlock seamlessly like a finely tuned system.

Six Amuse-Bouches

No fewer than six amuse-bouches are served before the seven-course menu officially begins. Following three initial snacks featuring potato, Périgord truffle, and rice, a miniature vitello tonnato presents the flavors of veal and tuna in delicate balance. The prelude concludes with a chawan mushi – a Japanese savory custard – topped with oyster tartare, wagyu, and caviar. This creation, too, impresses with deep umami notes and finely calibrated salinity.

The chef himself clears the first plates, briefly checking in with the guests before returning to the rhythm of service. «Two menu one, one special with nothing from the water», Nieder calls out calmly. The nine-member brigade responds in unison with a measured «Jawohl».

Breton Lobster with Citrus – and Krug Grande Cuvée 173 Edition

From an acoustic perspective, the Chef’s Table is ideally positioned in a niche on the right edge of the kitchen. The activity at the stoves remains perceptible, yet conversation – even in an intimate setting – is effortless. «From the outside, you hear nothing at all», Nieder says with a smile.

The menu opens with Breton lobster accompanied by citrus, ginger, and avocado. A strong start: acidity meets subtle sweetness, together elevating the lobster onto center stage. Sommelier Katharina Sarrot pairs the dish with Krug Grande Cuvée 173 Edition.

Hake, Sea Bass, Beef Brisket

What follows exemplifies Nieder’s culinary signature. Hake is served with a sauerkraut beurre blanc and a sauerkraut ice cream. As the fish melts on the palate and the buttery sauce merges with the distinctive notes of the fermented cabbage, one may wonder why Michelin has yet to award the German chef a third star. Rival guide Gault & Millau has rated him at 19 points since 2019.

Tender pigeon with red cabbage, beetroot, pomegranate, licorice, and potato espuma. (Image: Tobias Hüberli for finews)

Time seems to pass faster at the Chef’s Table than in the dining room – hardly surprising, given the constant activity. The bar de ligne (sea bass), arranged in a fan with scallops, is followed by braised beef brisket layered with foie gras, savoy cabbage, and Périgord truffle. Both dishes display remarkable composure and balance. The brisket is accompanied by a Valais interpretation of a Super Tuscan, a 2014 blend of Cornalin, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, served from a magnum.

A Box Seat in the Kitchen

For the main course, Nieder serves pigeon. The tender bird is paired with red cabbage, beetroot, pomegranate, licorice, and his now-legendary potato foam.

As we prepare for two desserts – mascarpone with mandarin, pumpkin, and rooibos tea, followed by «Black Forest» – the pace in the kitchen noticeably slows. Apart from the two pastry chefs, the brigade begins to clean and restore order with meticulous precision.

Maximum of Five Guests

«That’s part of it», Nieder says. «Toward the end of the evening, the kitchen empties out.» This does not mean guests are being ushered out. Rather, the atmosphere shifts once more. Friandises, coffee, and the house’s renowned pralines are enjoyed in a theater that has already closed.

The Chef’s Table accommodates four, at most five guests, and is available for lunch and dinner without surcharge, exclusively in combination with the seven-course menu.

Tobias Hüberli is editor-in-chief of the gastronomy magazine Salz & Pfeffer.